In Florence, Martine Rose debuted as the prestigious yearly guest designer at Pitti Uomo. With the temporary assistance of Kid Super designer Colm Dillane, Louis Vuitton presented in Paris. Gucci unveiled its initial lines without Alessandro Michele. Another killer collection was co-delivered by Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada. For the AW'23 season, which debuts in mid-to-late August, there are big names, huge garments, and big things to be thrilled about.
Therefore, we've put up a comprehensive guide to all the menswear trends for 2023 to help you plan for the upcoming season.
The hardest color to wear is Cadbury purple, which is the best food to consume. Before now. Fendi had plenty of purples, including a pair of surprisingly understated leather pants, and Kiko Kostadinov had high-shine nylon tracksuits made in Bournville's preferred hue of purple. In the end, not that tough to wear.
worn-out jeans. cut-off jumpers. sloppy cardis. Grunge is making a comeback and it looks quite familiar. In Paris and Milan, there were incredibly particular riffs on Kurt Cobain and company. Givenchy's plaid shirts were layered and longlined, while Gucci's models were sent out in worn-out knits and tiny beanie caps that serve no use other than to look beautiful in the winter. However, the birthplace of the grunge was Egonlab. Denim jackets that had been rinse-washed featured oversized sleeves and were worn with plaid shirts and muddy knee trousers.
The collars are wide. like, in fact, The neck wings on either side of Ami's aviator coats were big enough for takeoff. While the wool knit collars from Casablanca spread out over artful knitwear, the faux leopard print collars from Dior billowed out over trench coats. Big Eighties-style collars in his trademark tartan work shirts were provided by British designer Charles Jeffrey at Loverboy, while Miuccia and Raf brought us the most unexpected design at Prada with their pointed, dart-like pattern.
A dependable, workwear-adjacent topper provided by small culty companies with little culty shops in Soho, the entire trawlerman thing was a mid-sized vessel. Now that the Big Brands are all shipping their own small, tiny beanies, that boat has kind of turned into a luxury liner. Bode was a clever, cozy, and artistic place. Ribbed, abstract, and a little bit Lego-like at Fendi. Simple at Armani; jovial at Casablanca; and as reminiscent of the classic trawlerman, craft ale-expert beanie as it is practical at Gucci. Yes, we are totally on board.
It is well known that the overcoat has incredible power. Additionally, it is a weapon that anyone can use, and fashion week made sure to capitalize on this power by producing some of the best overcoats in recent memory. Ami's were large, sturdy, and swishy, displacing any charges of left-fieldism with wearable, blocky colors. It was more theatrical and reminiscent of Phantom of the Opera at Dolce. And at Saint Laurent, the holy grail: precise, carefree overcoats built for mob bosses, cartoon villains, and curiously young guys who live in castles and eat at night.
Consider the traditional suit to be the hub of men's fashion. You might try to reinvent it. Chains, rubber, and metallic trim are all options. However, in general, simplicity is ideal and is what most men desire. It is comforting to see a plethora of companies keep to impeccable tailoring that isn't overdone, with Canali, Emporio Armani, and even Vtmnts (Vtmnts!) selling items with a broad, all-encompassing appeal.
THE DISASSEMBLED SUIT
When you thought the traditional suit was the cleanest and sharpest item in your closet, it really gets cleaner and more streamlined. dramatically so! The goal of tailoring at Kenzo, Vuitton, and Bianca Saunders was to eliminate or drastically reduce elements. The outcome was simultaneously simplistic, sci-fi, and '90s. In any case, lapels were overvalued.
You saw Robert Pattinson attend the Dior presentation wearing a skirt (or was it a skort?). It belonged to a larger movement. When Martine Rose concluded Pitti Uomo with a collection bursting with men wearing denim, and floor-length skirts, she set the ball rolling. When it came to fashion, Ludovic Saint Sernin was all about pleated minis that were so Y2K, whereas Etro's man preferred long tartan skirts that were worn with big rugby shirts. Just be sure to do leg day.
NEW BOMBER JACKET
Although the bomber jacket is nothing new (it was developed by the US Army Aviation Clothing Board in 1917 to keep World War I pilots warm, FYI), for AW'23, major labels offered fresh interpretations of the basic flying jacket. At Prada, Raf Simons broke from tradition and committed to his trademark large silhouette; he and Miuccia sent bomber jackets that were zipped up all the way down the runway. At Hed Mayner, they were large and made of nylon, in contrast to Domenico and Stefano's leather bomber jackets at Dolce & Gabbana that had billowing sleeves and precisely cuffed waists.
Men's fashion is becoming bizarre. The coats made by JW Anderson have waves. Jonathan Anderson, who is also the CEO of Loewe, brought models down the catwalk wearing comical jackets that resembled bulbs. The waist-cinching suit jackets worn by Egon Lab had contrasting huge arms and pointy shoulders. Botter introduced the cardi-jumper with a wraparound. Warped blazer designs at Comme des Garçons, where Rei Kawakubo has always been a shape-loving child since she founded the brand, giving boxy a whole new meaning.
A REVIVAL OF THE NECKTIE
There are trends that occasionally appear on both the runways and the street. A few neckties outside the exhibitions let people in attendance recognize the essential piece of menswear on the catwalks, where it was of course dressed up. The moment has come to search through your closet, or your dad's or granddad's, and dust off those ties, since it was only a matter of time until it happened.
This season, a study of ties in all colors, patterns, and sizes was presented to us. In Florence, Martine Rose, a guest designer at Pitti Uomo 103, displayed a collection in her louche, counterculture-inspired style that was dotted with silk ties that occasionally matched the designs on the shirts. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy debuted colorful ties in Milan, but it was an enormous necktie dress that caught everyone's attention.
At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, ever the overachievers, began their show with a pair of trompe l'oeil looks that included elongated collars and curving lines that transformed bare chests into ties that appeared to be tied; real ties were later shown in colors that matched collared shirts exactly. Both MSGM and Magliano chose a more relaxed look, loosening the tie and wearing an untucked shirt with a tie, respectively.
A fringe's movement, with its strands dangling and bouncing back and forth, has an intriguing aesthetic quality. And throughout the past two weeks, the appearance was on exhibit.
Some brands made use of traditional scarf fringes. Another of the guest companies at Pitti Uomo in Florence was Belgian cult designer Jan-Jan Van Essche, who displayed blanket-like shawls with fine fringe that tickled the ground. Fendi displayed shawls and scarves with similar trimming in Milan. But it was Fendi's purple hoodie with hem fringe that truly cemented the trend.
From that point on, even subtler details on accessories at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Magliano were simple to identify. And in Paris, Hed Mayner experimented with wearing his jacket hems raw, sort of like a microfringe?
THE PURPLE PATCH OF PURPLE
Every season has a color that is expected to be prominent, and for Fall 2023, that color is probably going to be purple.
It all began at Fendi, where Silvia Venturini Fendi debuted a classy assortment of contemporary, carefree menswear filled with purple hues. Statement leather pieces, such as a motorbike jacket and boots with hardware, were rendered in purple at JW Anderson.
A lavender peak lapel double-breasted blazer and a purple overcoat were both parts of the new post-Alessandro Michele Gucci collection. In a striking purple velvet, Dries Van Noten presented the latter style in a leaner form in Paris.
Emerging brand Bluemarble also offered sunglasses, coats, trousers, and sneakers in various colors of purple in addition to reinventing camouflage with a purple tint. Kim Jones served up purple Donegal tweed on a coat and a skirt for Dior Men, but she was a little more understated about it. Even the always-dark Yohji Yamamoto used a reddish purple in his color scheme for Fall 2023.
Prep wear appears to be in line for a comeback in the upcoming year with all the crisp designs, neckties, and plaids on the catwalks.
To these eyes, the star plaid was the gun club check, which consists of twilled bands of various colors that, when enlarged, are like a windowpane plaid. It is one of the more traditional designs and is frequently found on sports coats and pants that are warmer and thicker. That's exactly how Nigo displayed it at Kenzo, along with other plaids throughout the collection and its use on shorts and outerwear.
Even Walter Van Beirendonck, whose work is rarely regarded in the same sentence as prep wear and who in recent seasons has adored bright neon colors and latex, employed a beautiful houndstooth pattern in heritage colors on jackets.
While Mike Amiri glammed up prep wear mainstays for his own brand with a whimsical, young spin on argyle, Dries Van Noten introduced checks. At Louis Vuitton, renowned KidSuper menswear guest designer Colm Dillane glitched up plaids in a way that brought heritage and futurity together.
FUN AFTER SKIING
Although the presence of skiwear-related styles was expected—we did refer to these collections as traditional cold-weather ones—there was something unique about these outfits. The outerwear, for one, didn't feel forced, as it can occasionally do when a brand launches, let's say, a skiwear capsule. Second, the full skiing aesthetic was embraced.
Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton also provided slope-ready outfits, including puffy down-filled coats, (very upscale) snow leggings, toasty mitts, and headbands. However, it was brands like Gucci and Acne who solidified the après-ski trend by embracing it.
It was more understated at Gucci, where long ribbed socks reminded people of vintage leg warmers they could have seen at a ski resort and a grey ribbed hoodie and pair of sweatpants reminded them of classic base layers. Knee-high socks, as well as body-con tops and one-pieces that appeared to be influenced by more contemporary compression base layers, were all part of an odd Acne collection. Jonathan Anderson also debuted a collection at Loewe that featured a lot of tights. Additionally, a particularly alpine Charles Jeffrey Loverboy outfit included Fair Isle knits, gloves, boots, and even goggles!
In addition to the aforementioned Armani and Vuitton, 1017 Alyx 9SM and Hermès both produced highly technical outerwear in the manner of modern ski wear. Think about an artisanal Arc'teryx.