Grape leather is a highly desirable material that possesses several exceptional qualities, including its softness, smooth texture, and excellent stability. It is also fully sustainable and recyclable, making it an ideal eco-friendly option for conscious consumers. Furthermore, it is a 100% vegan material, with no animal products used throughout the production process, thereby ensuring that no animals are harmed.
The creation of grape leather is credited to Vegea, an Italian technology company that sought to repurpose waste from the Italian wine industry. Grape pomace, which comprises the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems of the fruit, is the solid remains left after the pressing process. Vegea combines this waste product with vegetable oil and water-based PU to create a bio-based eco-composite material. This material is then coated onto organic cotton, resulting in grape leather that is both luxurious and sustainable.
In 2015, grape leather emerged as an innovative material and was recognized in 2017 for its sustainability achievements when it won the H&M Innovation Award. This prestigious accolade acknowledges technology concepts that contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.
Vegea, the Italian technology company responsible for creating grape leather, employs a waste-repurposing approach to the material's production. By utilizing grape pomace, a byproduct of the winemaking industry, Vegea creates a circular economy that extends the usefulness of grapes. The material's underlying components are organic, and the polyurethane used in its production is sourced from the most eco-friendly sources available.
Despite its sustainability advantages, grape leather is not yet biodegradable, and recycling the material can be challenging. However, by minimizing its wash frequency, its useful life can be extended, making it a long-lasting and durable material. As a new and innovative material, research into improving the biodegradability and recycling of grape leather is ongoing, making it a promising sustainable alternative for the fashion industry.
The grape leather material developed by Vegea boasts a highly sustainable production process, with minimal water consumption and the ability to repeatedly reuse the water utilized. The material is composed of 78% eco-composite organic cotton and 22% water-based polyurethane (PU). This combination incorporates the natural bio-oils of the grape, along with the residual dried grape materials, while the addition of organic cotton fibers contributes to the soft, plant-based texture of the resulting leather.
Grape leather is poised to become a significant player in the fashion industry, offering a highly desirable material that is both soft and similar in structure to animal leather, yet 100% sustainable and vegan. It represents an innovation in sustainable materials and has already been employed in the design of sneakers and handbags by numerous brands. As an alternative to animal-based and polluting materials, the use of fruits and vegetables in the fashion industry is becoming increasingly popular, and grape leather is at the forefront of this trend.
GRAPE-BASED MATERIALS: A SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVE TO LEATHER?
The fashion industry is continually seeking sustainable, ethical, and vegan alternatives to traditional textiles, with grapes emerging as the latest contender. As consumers continue to prioritize eco-friendly materials, grape-based materials offer a promising solution for accessories, including bags and shoes that are less harmful to the environment.
It's important to note that while these materials are often referred to as 'grape leather,' the term can be misleading. France's National Leather Council (CNC) has pointed out that many emerging materials are visually similar to leather but should not be labeled as such. In March, they emphasized that the term 'leather' should be reserved for the material resulting from tanning the skin of an animal, which possesses specific properties and qualities. Instead, grape-based materials should be accurately described to avoid any confusion.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF GRAPE LEATHER
The development of vegan materials made from grapes has become increasingly prevalent within the fashion industry as a means to mitigate the industry's environmental impact. Italian company VEGEA, a pioneering firm in this field, has collaborated with winegrowing estates to recycle wine waste, including grape marc, seeds, and skins. Through this process, all materials that are not utilized in wine production are recovered, transformed, and subsequently provided to the fashion industry.
BIG NAMES IN FASHION EMBRACE GRAPE LEATHER
High-profile brands have already incorporated grape leather into their product lines. In September 2020, Le Coq Sportif made headlines by launching a collection of vegan sneakers made from "grape leather" amidst the pandemic. This collection includes a classic model and a retro runner, which feature a cork insole and a rubber outsole. The collaboration between Le Coq Sportif and VEGEA served as a testament that major brands are willing to take sustainable actions. Even fast fashion companies, such as H&M, have partnered with the Italian company to offer eco-friendly pieces under their H&M Conscious range.
WINE LEATHER: A SUSTAINABLE VEGAN ALTERNATIVE
Wine leather is an innovative material that shares similar characteristics to traditional leather, but is more sustainable and cruelty-free. It is soft, smooth, and stable, and has the potential to be recycled. As it is made from waste products from Italian wine production, wine leather is also an eco-friendly alternative.
Unlike traditional leather, which is derived from animal skins, wine leather is 100% vegan, and no animals are harmed during the production process. The core and shell of the grapes used in wine production are processed through a chemical process developed by Vegea, which serves as the basis for the material.
While the exact production process of wine leather remains a trade secret, it is known that the waste materials undergo a chemical transformation to create the final product. The resulting material is a combination of organic cotton and water-based polyurethane, with the grape waste serving as a natural and sustainable component. This makes wine leather a promising option for sustainable fashion and beyond.
GRAPE LEATHER’S PROMISING FUTURE IN MULTIPLE INDUSTRIES
Grape leather is proving to be a versatile and ethical alternative to traditional textiles, and fashion brands are taking note. Le Coq Sportif, Pangaia, Roman Raibaudi, and Maison Peaux Neuves are just a few of the brands incorporating grape leather into their products.
The sustainable and cruelty-free nature of grape leather is expected to propel its use beyond the fashion industry. Bentley, for example, has already collaborated with VEGEA to incorporate the material into their automotive designs. The potential of grape leather in other industries such as home décor and accessories is also being explored.
With the success of grape leather in the fashion industry and its expanding applications, it is evident that the material has a bright future ahead. Brands and industries alike are expected to continue to embrace this innovative and eco-friendly solution.
GRAPE LEATHER PRODUCTION
The production process of wine leather involves several steps. Firstly, the grape marc, which includes the skin and stalk, is collected and dried. Then, bio-oil is extracted from the grape seeds using patented methods and polymerized.
The resulting material is combined with the fibers from the grape marc, and a unique manufacturing process is used along with chemical substances to create a material that closely resembles animal leather. One of the major advantages of this material is that it is 100% sustainable and does not require the use of oil or toxic chemicals.
Moreover, the production process of wine leather is highly efficient in terms of water consumption. Minimal water is used during production, and it can be repeatedly reused, making it a highly sustainable option for the fashion industry.
SUSTAINABILITY
The production of wine generates a substantial amount of waste, with 26 billion liters of wine being produced globally each year, and Italy being the world leader with 18% of the total wine production. The waste, which consists of the shells, cores, and other remnants, is recycled to produce wine leather, with 10 liters of wine waste producing 2.5 kg of raw material that can yield one square meter of wine leather. Thus, a total of 2.6 billion square meters of wine leather can be produced annually using wine production waste.
The use of wine leather is highly sustainable due to several factors. The raw material is renewable and has a low environmental impact, with no polluting substances produced during its production process. Additionally, the production process consumes minimal amounts of water, thus eliminating water wastage. The cost of production is also low, making it an economical choice.
Furthermore, the recycling concept of Vegea is noteworthy, as old wine leather products can be returned to dealers or recyclers in exchange for a coupon that can be redeemed for further processing or to produce new wine leather products. Overall, the sustainability of wine leather makes it a highly desirable alternative to less eco-friendly materials, such as PU leather.
CURRENT AND FUTURE WINE LEATHER PRODUCTS
Products made of wine leather are still relatively few and far between. However, with the partnership between Vegea and H&M, it is likely that we will see a significant increase in wine leather products in the near future. Many vegan clothing brands are expected to adopt this sustainable material as well.
In addition, DAN & MÉZ is also working on developing products made from wine leather, which will likely be available soon.
GRAPE LEATHER DURABILITY
Conventional leather is known for its durability due to its natural oils that prevent it from drying out, cracking, and sustaining damage. Grape leather, on the other hand, lacks these natural oils, making it less durable than animal leather. However, it compensates for this by being made thicker than traditional leather, thereby increasing its flexibility and durability.
Moreover, grape leather is water-resistant and possesses a smooth texture, which gives it a similar feel to that of animal leather. The garment can be coated with polyurethane to further enhance its wearability and increase its longevity. Sustainable grape leather producers such as VEGEA use water-based polyurethane, the most environmentally friendly option available.
While grape leather may not offer the same longevity as animal leather, it is still a durable and water-resistant material, ideal for a variety of applications.
Although grape leather garments are coated in polyurethane, which is essentially plastic, the issue with this coating is only evident at the end of the product’s life, when it can affect its natural biodegradability. Synthetic fabrics, on the other hand, require millions of tons of oil to be produced yearly, while animal leather requires rigorous tanning, which is harmful to both workers and the environment. Therefore, while grape leather may not be as durable and may have an impact on the environment at the end of its life, it is still a more sustainable option when compared to the fashion industry’s long-established methods.
Fortunately, work is constantly being done to improve the performance and durability of plant-based leathers, which means that in the future, grape leather manufacturers may not need to use polyurethane at all.
Although grape leather garments are coated in polyurethane, which is essentially plastic, the issue with this coating is only evident at the end of the product’s life, when it can affect its natural biodegradability. Synthetic fabrics, on the other hand, require millions of tons of oil to be produced yearly, while animal leather requires rigorous tanning, which is harmful to both workers and the environment. Therefore, while grape leather may not be as durable and may have an impact on the environment at the end of its life, it is still a more sustainable option when compared to the fashion industry’s long-established methods.
Fortunately, work is constantly being done to improve the performance and durability of plant-based leathers, which means that in the future, grape leather manufacturers may not need to use polyurethane at all.
RECYCLED WASTE
The use of grape leather in the fashion industry has a positive impact on the environment and helps to apply circular economic strategies. This sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to traditional leather is made from grape skins and seeds leftover from winemaking, contributing to the reduction of waste in the winery market.
With its biodegradable nature and lower environmental impact, grape leather has the potential to revolutionize the fashion industry. Despite being a new and innovative material, its benefits make it a promising candidate for a more sustainable and responsible fashion value chain.
LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
Grape leather is considered a friendlier alternative to animal leather, as it has lower ecological and carbon impacts. It uses a reduced amount of water, which is recyclable, and helps to replace animal leather, which is notorious for having one of the highest emissions of greenhouse gases. By choosing grape leather over animal leather, individuals can make a positive impact on the environment and contribute to a more sustainable future.
IN CONCLUSION
Grape leather is a promising sustainable and vegan material that has the potential to transform the fashion industry. Its soft texture and resemblance to animal leather make it an attractive alternative for conscious consumers. Additionally, unlike Piñatex, grape leather does not require petroleum-based paints or varnishes for its top coating, making it even more eco-friendly. However, it is worth noting that Ananas Anam, the company behind Piñatex, is already developing a bio-based coating method, which could improve the sustainability of their material. As more research and development are conducted in the field of sustainable materials, we can expect to see even more innovative and eco-friendly options in the future.